Tour Day #2 - Mount Nebo, Border Crossing, Qumran, Jericho

I awoke this morning to the sounds of the Muslim call to prayer. Strains of Arabic I could not understand crept into my sleep and drew me into the new day with something somewhere between a chant and a wail. I continue to be amazed by the faithfulness of a people who so willingly rise for prayer at 0500 each morning. Having hiked through Petra yesterday and not yet recovered from the long day of travel, I wasn’t even ready for coffee and a shower! But there was a full day of adventure before us so, after a wonderful breakfast buffet from which I chose fresh bread and cheese, olives, hummus, and dates – with a much coffee as I could consume before the appointed time to board the bus – we were off!



Our first stop was Mount Nebo. Rising from the Transjordanian plateau, Mount Nebo is about 4 miles west of Madaba and rises 800 meters above the plateau. A chapel at the peak and beautiful gardens maintained by Franciscan monks mark the place where Moses looked out upon the Promised Land. Christians converted an older building into a church in the 4th century and adorned it with mosaics and other art, some of which still exists in beautiful condition today. Reading the translation of a 4th century caption created in mosaic, I was struck by the continuity often offered by human history. It offered thanks and prayers for blessing for the benefactor who provided the furnishings for the church – apparently Christian churches have been putting name plates on chairs for a very long time!!


From the top of Mount Nebo it is possible to see the Valley of the Jordan with the mountains of Judea and Samaira, Jebel Osha and southern slopes of the Wadi Zerqa. The hills of Amman are visible in one direction and, in the other, Bethlehem, including the Herodium, and the towers of Jerusalem and the Mount of Olives. The Dead Sea provided a beautiful backdrop as we stood above the Valley of the Jordan and looked toward Qumran, our next stop after crossing the border in to Israel. On most any other day I would have wanted nothing more than to wade into the Dead Sea to bob like a cork in its high salt content; however, my dismay with the agenda omission was tempered as we were bundled up in coats against the cool morning temperatures.


Leaving Mount Nebo, we stopped at a mosaic factory and learned about the program that employs 80+ people, many with disabilities, in making the beautiful mosaics. Of course, there was an opportunity to shop and nany of us found at least something small that we "just had to have." From there we drove through the Jordanian countryside toward its border with Israel and navigated the crossing without difficulty. The four stop process seemed a little overboard, but appears to work to assure both sides that the autonomy of the “dead zone” is intact. We


By way of comic relief, we had a great laugh enroute courtesy of Tammy. Over the two days we have been with Michele he has repeatedly referred to “Japanese Camels” and we thought everyone was in on the joke…turns out Tammy missed something along the way. We drove by a Bedouin camp with a herd of “regular” camels and one “Japanese” camel – looking right at four-legged camels and oblivious to the well-used Toyota truck parked in their midst, Tammy asked Michele (in all seriousness and in front of the whole bus) how to tell one kind of camel from the other. The silence was palpable as everyone tried to keep a straight face…until we erupted in laughter. The good news is Tammy is a great sport!


We were sad to say farewell to Michele and leave him at the first border crossing to continue with only our bus driver into Israel where we met our new tour guide. Mike is an Arab Christian and an Israeli citizen as his Palestinian family resided in Jerusalem prior to the 1967 demarcation point that the Israeli government established following a whole lot of fighting, political and otherwise, that is all far too involved to try to explain with integrity in a blog. Mike has a big job before him following Michele, but we have a good feeling about him! His first offering: Qumran.


At Qumran National Park on the north-western shore of the Dead Sea, we viewed a film that explained the community of the Essenes, a break-away sect of Jews, who lived and studied there for two centuries beginning at the end of the Hashmonean period and continuing through the revolt of the Jews against the Romans. The Essenes left their writings hidden within clay jars in caves surrounding Qumran when they fled the area. In 1947 a Bedouin shepherd found seven of the ancient scrolls in a cave and the search began – today we know the writings as the Dead Sea Scrolls. From Qumran, the view of the Dead Sea is amazing and with the temperature climbing as the day progressed, I was tempted to run for the water! Qumran is a barren, but beautiful place and I can only begin to imagine what the lives of the Essenes must have been like. Great place…lots to learn!


From Qumran, we headed to Jericho through the checkpoint into Israeli occupied, Palestinian territory. Jericho is a complex place, citrus and vegetables flooding the market stands produced by fertile ground and plentiful irrigation, and wilderness surrounding the oasis. The struggle of the Palestinian people is evident but they are friendly and hospitable – tempered only by the frustrations of a few street vendors disappointed that we did not purchase their wares. We saw a sycamore tree (billed as the one from which Zaccheus encountered Jesus) that is at least old, if not biblical; ate lunch at the local tourist stop, and saw the ruins of the excavated wall that marks Jericho as the “oldest city on earth.”


When the Bible speaks of Jerusalem, it is always in the context of “going up” to the city and the geography of the land explains why. As our bus moved up to toward the golden city, Mike had wonderful piece of music for us to hear as we came into Jerusalem. He timed the crescendo to coincide with our first glimpse of the city and that would have worked very well had there not been a wreck in the tunnel that shut down traffic and forced us to turn back and take another route. Oh, well…what can you do??


The Olive Tree Hotel looks just like it did four years ago and that is not a bad thing. Our rooms are nice – clean with comfortable beds and plenty of common space for gathering with others. It’s been a great day and I’m looking forward to what tomorrow has to offer: Bethlehem!

Tour Day #1 - Petra

So ... that brings us to this morning (Tuesday). The 28 of us (still short Laura Jean) Awoke to a Chilly and clear Jordanian morning and enjoyed a great Mediterranean breakfast before boarding the bus once again to begin our first day of touring. We met our tour guide, Michele, a Jordanian Christian ... married 23 years to his beloved bride (just ask him about her) and the father of four (two daughters and two sons). Michele is a walking encyclopedia on Jordanian society, Biblical witness, and the history of major and minor sites of interest. Michele leads a three person team Guiding us through Jordan - together with our Ma'moon, a Jordanian police officer assigned to the Tourist Police Division, and our skilled bus driver who Navigates his huge vehicle through narrow and Congested streets with skill that calls to mind that great biblical Metaphor often translated to include a camel and the eye of a needle!

Our journey from Amman to Petra took three hours and we filled the time with a Devotion offered by Steve, Pastor of the Richwood UMC, prayer, singing, and more history and information from Michele Intersting than any of us could individually retain. What a blessing it was to come together in prayer and thanksgiving, enjoying the promise of the day and grateful for Sharon's full recovery. The terrain was barren, with only isolated patches of green and many wondered aloud how people could live so far from town ... apparently many of these folks have not seen West Texas and the Panhandle!

Arriving at "Petra" is only the beginning of the Nabatean adventure for one has to navigate 1 1 / 2 miles of rocky, rough terrain to finally see the Excavated community and the Treasury, as it is known. The options for this journey are few: ride in a two passenger carriage drawn by a horse and driven at high speeds up and down the Bumpy trail or walk. We chose to walk - at least down the hill! Michele did an excellent job of Explaining to us the history of the Nabatean society, at least as much as is known. A powerful community along the trade route that including King's Highway, it Existed before and during the time of Jesus. The Excavation of their city is estimated to be only 9% complete, but already includes some phenomenal work. In the slide show you will be able to see the graves that the Nabateans carved out of the sand stone for the Interment of their family members. The most intricate of these Tombs likely Belonged to middle and upper middle class families, all families with creating something for loved ones to speed the process of the soul's ascension to the heavens and subsequent Reincarnation (a belief shared by many cultures of the time.)

The Treasury is the most intricate of the Tombs, it's name a Misnomer Mistanken Arising from the belief that there were Fortunes stored within it's walls and Adornments. However, this amazing structure was the final resting place of five the Nabatean kings. Pictures in the slide show will give you some idea of the beauty of the Treasury, but no picture, not even the Filming of Indiana Jones, truly captures the sheer magnitude and beauty of the work. The presence of Camels in front of the Treasury delighted many ... and Intimidated some .... and appropriate pictures have been posted for Posterity! The walk back up to the main road proved something of a challenge and certainly worked out any residual effects of 30 hours of mandatory sitting. We all made it back to the bus though.

From the Youngest to the oldest we drug ourselves back without injury save the Headscarf pin that Punctured Janelee's foot after she somehow managed to pick up it up in the sole of her walking shoes. A phone call back to the states confirmed what she already suspected: her last Tetnus shot was too long ago! So it was back to The Specialty Hospital this evening for me - this time to keep Janelee company and perhaps see once again the new friends I made last night. I am so impressed by the level of care and Personable, Casual manner in which it was offered ... no chart, no admission for something so small as a tiny Puncture ... just a quick look at the foot ensure nothing was broken off within the skin and a trip down the hall to the pharmacy for an "anti-Tenus" shot (they do have a point about proper terminology!) We were out the door fifteen minutes and ten dollars later ... what a deal!!

Well, it's rather late here and our wake up call is at 0600 to prepare to depart for our excursion to Mount Nebo tomorrow morning. We will stand where Moses stood and see what Moses saw as he looked out across the land which God promised to the Descendents of Abraham. But we will get to do what Moses never did ... we will bid Farewell to dear Jordan, cross the river into Israel and set foot in the Promised Land. It will be a wonderful, blessed time that we will each experience in a unique way. I look forward to the Richness of the day and the promise of the days before us. Although, I do wonder what I shall do for evening entertainment without the chance to visit The Specialty Hospital? Seriously, the Joshua and Murfreesboro groups have had their trips to the doc and the folks from New Jersey seem to have their act together so maybe we are done. It was an interesting experience though, and if I have some time later I will share with you the observations I made as I people-watched in the waiting room. It opened a window into the real lives and relational dynamics of our Jordanian friends I would not have had without our side excursions beyond the walls of the hotel and outside the Confines of the bus.

One last blessing tonight: Laura Jean arrived shortly before dinner and while she missed the Petra experience completes our group. We are grateful for her presence with us.

Sleep well, dear friends, and know that you are all appreciated. Stories of loved ones and home have come alive in the telling and we are enjoying getting to know one another and those who love and support us from afar. You are here for we've each carried you with us. There is a saying among our Jewish brothers and sisters, "Next year in Jerusalem." In that spirit of hope and Anticipation, we say, "Tomorrow in Jerusalem!" Until then, peace and grace be yours.

Catching Up!!

Wow! What a whirlwind the last 24 hours have been and there is much to update! When I last posted late Sunday afternoon, the FUMC Joshua group was sitting in the Atlanta airport with rapidly decreasing patience as our plane, temporarily grounded after the previously crew reported malfunctioning flaps upon landing, seemed unlikely to fly again that afternoon. Sure enough, we got the opportunity to race across Atlanta-Hartsfield from Terminal E back to B from which we had originally come. The flight was assigned a new aircraft and we boarded about two hours after our initial departure time. An hour in line on the tarmac waiting for a departure window for our “unscheduled” flight just about did us in…and that was before we knew that the in-flight Wi-Fi wasn’t working! It wasn’t looking good for the blog!



We knew our chances of catching the New York flight were fading with each passing moment. Originally scheduled to enjoy a 5 ½ hour layover at Kennedy, we arrived with just one hour remaining. While that may seem a significant amount of time to those who have not been to this small city of an airport, it allowed only a window of opportunity to navigate the terminal change (complete with outdoor commute), check in at the Royal Jordanian counter for seat assignments and stand at length amid a wonderfully diverse sea of humanity at the security check point. Those who had hoped for lunch/dinner, coffee, and/or smoke breaks with time to log on to the internet were disappointed as the first boarding call came as we approached the gate. We had only just enough time to make initial introductions and begin to put names with the faces of our new traveling companions. We learned that our Tennessee friends experienced similar travel challenges and had arrived only shortly before we did; in fact, Laura Jean, traveling alone to meet up with her Tennessee group, had not arrived at all. Of course, the New Jersey contingent was looking enviably fresh and ready to begin their journey! Once we were seated on the old but large A-300 Airbus, our bus captain, the Rev. Gene Wise (Tennessee) learned that Laura Jean was in line at the security checkpoint…not good news as we felt the aircraft push back. With only one flight per day to Amman, we prayed we would see Laura Jean in a day or two.


The flight to Amman was uneventful - punctuated by periodic beverage service and a good meal, as far as airline food is concerned, with extended periods of sleep for the lucky ones; others enjoyed award-worthy programming such as "Aliens in the Attic." The friendly RJ flight crew did everything possible to make the very long flight pass pleasantly…and ultimately more quickly than normal. We departed JFK at 10:45pm EST on Sunday evening and arrived in Amman at 4:30pm (local time in Jordan) Monday evening, one hour earlier than anticipated. A representative from Educational Opportunities met us at the airport as promised and, glory be, everyone’s luggage arrived on schedule!! Once through customs and aboard the “Purple Bus” designated for our “purple” E.O. group, we began to relax as we headed into Amman – the hope of a hotel room, hot shower, and meal before us as we thought about getting horizontal for a few hours of much needed rest after a 30 hour travel day.


Leave it to the Joshua group to add a little excitement to the situation: five minutes before we pulled into the hotel one in our group, Sharon Tucker, began to seize and convulse. We got her to the floor of the bus and took on our respective roles: those with nursing and/or emergency response training caring for Sharon, the rest praying fervently that what she was experiencing was “simply” a seizure rather than a TIA or stroke. The ambulance arrived in front of our hotel shortly after the bus pulled in and Sharon’s sister, Marsha, and I were allowed to accompany her to the hospital. What an amazing experience that was! The Specialty Hospital is located less than a mile from The Regency Hotel and nurses and doctors were on hand to meet the arriving ambulance. Sharon, who had regained consciousness just after the paramedics boarded the E.O. bus, could give her name on the ambulance but was still unable to name the U.S. president when we arrived at the hospital. The emergency room was simple and unadorned, but the staff was attentive and caring. Jordanian medical protocol seems much more casual than we are accustomed to, but that may be a benefit in the end. Marsha was asked to place $200 US on deposit as the doctor ordered an EEG and CAT scan and began assessing Sharon. Two and a half hours later the three of us were in a private car sent from the hotel, and Sharon had in her possession copies of tests results that revealed no evidence a bleed, instructions from the doc to enjoy her vacation and return should she experience another episode, and a refund of about $80. That’s right – an ambulance ride, emergency room treatment in a private hospital, EEG and CAT scan all for about $120!! Apparently, it can be done. Who knew?

Off We Go!

Well, after a brief delay at DFW airport due to inclement weather in Atlanta, we were wheels up and away. Currently, we are awaiting our connection to JKF (and the five hour New York layover) before we will finally find ourselves enroute to Amman. We are all excited...although pacing ourselves seems to be in order for this very long day. In fact, at the moment, the Atlanta ground crew is inspecting our aircraft as the incoming flight crew reported problems during approach and landing. The bad news is that they expect the aircraft to be ready by 4:30 EST...the good news: our luggage has PLENTY of time to make the connection! What time will we actually depart for New York? Who knows...but travel is always an adventure and the right spirit makes it fun...at least that's what we are going to keep telling ourselves.

Once we arrive in NYC, we will connect with our traveling companions from Tennessee and New Jersey. We are looking forward to meeting the folks with whom we will experience the Holy Land. In total there will be 29 of us on the bus: 7 from FUMC Joshua, 9 from Richwood UMC in Richwood, NJ, and 13 from St. Paul's Episcopal Church in Murfreesboro, TN. That almost sounds like the beginning of a joke: there was a group of Methodists and Episcopalians.... Anyway, I look forward to sharing the trip with those of you who will check in here from time to time. Until then, may God bless and keep us all and the miles between us be made few with heartfelt and fervent prayers.